Needle Guide

There are many types of needles both for sewing machines and hand sewing. These needles come in many thicknesses. Use the thickness that best suits your fabric choice and its thickness. This will keep you from breaking your needles. Also, keep your needles sharp for a better sewing experience. Check them and change them out as needed.

Below are some guidelines and information to help you understand the thicknesses and types of needles.

Needle Thickness

Machine needle thickness increases as the size number increases.
Example: Size 18 is thicker than a size 8.

However, with hand sewing needles, thickness decreases as the size number increases.
Example: Size 12 is thinner than a size 4.

Machine Needle Sizes

Below is a chart of common sizes for machine needles. American sizes are on the top row; European sizes are on the bottom row.

Deciphering Twin Needle Sizes

Read the sizes for twin needles as in the example below.

2.0/80: 2.0 is the space in millimeters between the needles; 80 is the needle size.

Standard Needle Types & Uses

Below are some standard sewing machine needles.

Universal Needle: This can be used with most fabrics. It has a rounded tip and elongated scarf (or indentation above the eye of the needle that allows the thread to be grabbed by the bobbin hook). Though this needle is fairly universal as its name implies, you may still wish to use a needle designed specifically for the fabric you are using.

Ballpoint & Stretch Needles: Ballpoint needles are best for loose sweater-like fabrics or heavy fabrics. Stretch needles are good for fabrics that are very stretchy. Both of these needles feature a rounded tip that allows them to move between threads. Use on test swatches of fabric to decide which will suit your fabric best.

Microtext & Sharp Needles: These are useful for sewing silk, synthetic leather, microfiber and for precision stitching. They have a very sharp point.

Leather & Denim Needles: These needles work best with the fabric/material they are named for. They are sharp and sturdy.

There are also many types of hand sewing needles, described below.

Milliner & Sharp Needles: These are the thinnest and are great for general-purpose sewing. They have a small round eye and a long shaft.

Crewel Needles: These needles are similar to sharp needles, except they have an oval eye. They are used for more decorative stitching like adding beads, sequins and other embellishments.

Chenille Needles: These needles have a long, wide eye, a thick shaft and a sharp tip. They are used with thicker threads and embroidery.

Tapestry Needles: These have a blunt tip and long, large eye. They are used with loosely woven fabric and Aida cloth, making them perfect for cross stitch. They are also sometimes called yarn needles and are used for knitting and crochet projects.

Betweens or Quilting Needles: These are short needles designed to help with making nice even stitches. They have a sharp point. As their name implies, they are perfect for hand quilting.

Darners: These are similar to crewel needles and have long shaft. They are often used for darning wool and cotton fabrics.

Curved Needles: These are specialty needles that are used to add finishing touches to upholstery or carpets.