Applying Bias Stems

Here is a fast and accurate way to apply bias stems, stitching them by machine and finishing them by hand.

1. Straighten and press the bias stem fabric.

2. Position the fabric along a straight line on a rotary cutting mat with straight and 45-degree diagonal lines.

3. Place your ruler along a 45-degree line and make a cut diagonally across the fabric (Photo 1).

  1. Position the ruler along the first cut. Cut strips 1 1/8" wide along the diagonal cut (Photo 2).
  1. Carefully fold the strips in half with wrong sides together lengthwise and press (Photo 3).
  1. Draw a line with a fabric marking pen or pencil onto the right side of the fabric to mark the stem position. Mark a second line 1/4" to the left of the first line for the stitching line (Photo 4).
  1. Align the raw edges of the bias stem strip with the right- or stem-position line. Machine-stitch in place using a 1/4" seam allowance (Photo 5).
  1. Fold the bias-stem strip’s folded edge over the raw edges along the stitching line and pin in place (Photo 6).
  1. Hand-stitch the folded edge in place using a slipstitch or an applique stitch, like a blanket stitch (Photo 7).
slip stitch and blanket stitchslip stitch and blanket stitch
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