How to Read Patterns & Charts
Following Patterns
Reading a knitting pattern can sometimes feel like trying to decipher a complex mystery plot. There are symbols and abbreviations to work out the meaning of. There are twists and turns in the pattern that you may not fully understand what the designer is trying to convey. There are numbers in parentheses, numbers in brackets, numbers with asterisks, etc. It can all be very confusing at times. Designers do their best to write patterns as clearly as possible, but what is clear to one person may not be to another. Additionally, not every designer writes patterns in exactly the same way. Though knitting seems pretty standardized in regard to abbreviations, symbols and special stitches, the way the instructions are expressed is still up to the designer. Though it wouldn’t be possible to cover every variation in pattern instructions, the below information is meant to remove some of the guesswork in reading patterns.
Most patterns have a similar setup. The information at the start of patterns usually tells you all the same things, though maybe in different orders. You will likely find the title of the pattern, the designer’s name, sometimes a quick description of the finished piece, a list of materials needed, notes about working the pattern, finished measurements, gauge information and sometimes skill level (though this can be subjective if not clearly defined).
Knitted items are made either in rows or rounds. Items made in rows are turned at the end of each row, then the next row is worked back in the other direction. Most patterns do not state to turn. It is assumed since the instructions are written in rows that you know you will need to turn at the end of the row. If you need to turn before the end of the row, that will be stated in the pattern. Generally, the pattern for working in rows will read to work the stated instructions across.
If you are working in the round, you are working in a spiral. You can use your preferred method for working in the round unless the designer directly states which method to use. Generally, you will see the designer instruct to work in pattern around the piece.
Counting stitches can be difficult when working in continuous rounds. To help keep track of where you are, place a stitch marker at the beginning of the first round, then slip the marker when you come to it on each round. Use a pencil and notepad or a row counter to keep track of how many rounds you have worked.
When working through a pattern, it is important to keep track of where you are so that you don’t miss any instructions or accidentally repeat something. Find the tracking method that works best for you. You can purchase keepers for your pattern. They will hold it in place and sometimes come with a movable marker that you can move down your pattern as you progress. You can also use a pencil and make tally marks on the pattern or use a sticky note.
Designers will also provide stitch counts so that you can check that you have the correct number of stitches as you work. They are normally listed at the end of a row, round or section of instructions. If no stitch count is given, a lot of times that means the count hasn’t changed from the previous stitch count stated. Not all designers or patterns supply stitch counts for every row or round or even when the stitch count changes. It all depends on that designer’s writing style.
Special stitch instructions and abbreviations will be included either in a note or in the row instructions. From that point on in the pattern, only the abbreviation will be used.
Knit Abbreviations
Most pattern instructions are written with abbreviations to shorten the pattern length. No one wants to print and follow a 30-page pattern. Knit patterns have some universal abbreviations, though some designers abbreviate more terms than others. Many patterns include a list of abbreviations and what they mean somewhere for you to reference.
Here is a list of standard abbreviations used in Annie’s patterns.
approx approximately
beg begin/begins/beginning
CC contrasting color
ch chain stitch
cm centimeter(s)
cn cable needle
dec(s) decrease/decreases/decreasing
dpn(s) double-point needle(s)
g gram(s)
inc(s) increase/increases/increasing
k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
kfb knit in front and back
kwise knitwise
LH left hand
m meter(s)
MC main color
mm millimeter(s)
oz ounce(s)
p purl
p2tog purl 2 stitches together
pat(s) pattern(s)
pm place marker
psso pass slipped stitch over
pwise purlwise
rem remain/remains/remaining
rep(s) repeat(s)
rev St st reverse stockinette stitch
RH right hand
rnd(s) round(s)
RS right side(s)
skp slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over—a left-leaning decrease
sk2p slip 1 knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over the stitch from the knit-2-together decrease—a left-leaning double decrease
sl slip
sl 1 kwise slip 1 knitwise
sl 1 pwise slip 1 purlwise
sl st(s) slip stitch(es)
sm slip marker from LH to RH needle
ssk slip 2 stitches, 1 at a time, knitwise; knit these stitches together through the back loops—a left-leaning decrease
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette stitch
tbl through the back loop
tog together
WS wrong side(s)
wyib with yarn in back
wyif with yarn in front
yd(s) yard(s)
yfwd yarn forward
yo (yo’s) yarn over(s)
Repeats & Groupings
Now let’s go over some symbols. Using repeat symbols in patterns shortens and simplifies the instructions and can be an indicator that helps you find your place when you return to the pattern after working a step.
Parentheses can be used a couple of ways. They can be used to indicate that you need to work more than one stitch in the same location. For example, (k1, yo, k1) in the next stitch means you are going to work three stitches in the next spot (one knit stitch, one yarn over and one more knit stitch). Or, parentheses can indicate a repeat of several stitches to be worked a certain number of times. Brackets can also be used the latter way. Work the instructions inside the ( ) or [ ] the number of times stated directly after. For example: [K5, yo] 3 times or (K5, yo) 3 times.If this were written out, it would read: K5, yo, k5, yo, k5, yo.
Asterisks are also used to indicate repeats. When repeating from asterisks, work through the instructions up to the words “repeat from *,” then go back to the * symbol and repeat the instructions the number of times stated or across the work to a certain point. For example: *yo, k5, p1; rep from * 2 more times or *yo, k5, p1; rep from * across.
If this were written out, it would read: yo, k5, p1, yo, k5, p1, yo, k5, p1.
The instructions from the * were completed once, then repeated twice more.
When repeating between two asterisks, go back to the first * symbol and repeat the instructions to the second * symbol.
Different symbols are sometimes used in combination. For example: *K4, (yo, k2tog, k1) 2 times; rep from * 3 more times.
This means starting at the *, work the k4, then work the instructions in parentheses twice, then repeat all of it three more times.
Another example could read: [K1, p1, *k1, (p2tog, K1) 2 times, p1; rep from * once, k1, p1],…. rep between [ ].
To work this sequence of instructions, starting at the opening bracket, work the two stitches, then the knit stitch following the *, next work the instructions in parentheses twice, then work the purl stitch, then work the instructions starting from the * again, then work the next two stitches, and then you may have some additional stitches. When you get to “rep between [ ]”, you will return to the bracketed section and work all of it again.
Entire rows or rounds, or groups of rows or rounds, can be repeated. For example: Row 12: Rep row 4.
In this instance, to work row 12, look back at and work the instructions for row 4 again.
A repeat of multiple rows may be written: Rows 24–42: Rep rows 4–8, ending with row 7.
To do this, look back at and work rows 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 in consecutive order three times, then work rows 4, 5, 6 and 7 again. This last repeat of row 7 will be row 42 when you count your completed rows.
Once a stitch or design repeat has been established, rather than having the same instructions written over and over, the instructions may simply say, work in pattern. This means to work the instructions exactly as previously stated, carefully keeping track of your stitches and rows, and using stitch markers if necessary. It is helpful to keep a notepad handy to mark down the repeats and rows as they are completed.
Sizing
Another way brackets or parentheses are used is to denote instructions for different sizes. If a pattern is offered in more than one size, all of the numbers for each size are included in the row or round instructions. At the start of a pattern, you might see information similar to the following, or there might be a schematic or chart that has this information:
Sizes
Woman’s small [medium, large, X-large, 2X-large, 3X-large]. Instructions are given for smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets. When only 1 number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Finished Measurements
Chest: 38 [43, 48, 53, 58, 63] inches
Length: 17 [19, 21, 21, 23, 25] inches
You use this information to choose the size you want to make. For example, let’s say you choose to make the size large. The Sizes section tells you that the second number in the brackets is where you will look for the information for size large. The corresponding spots in the Finished Measurements section tell you that a size large has a chest measurement of 48 inches and length of 21 inches. As you follow the pattern, you will want to use the second number inside of the brackets whenever there is a bracketed group of numbers.
If the pattern reads, “Using backward loop method, cast on 76 [86, 96, 106, 116, 126] sts,” you will cast on 96 stitches to make the size large. Sometimes it is helpful, if you are able, to circle or highlight all of the numbers in the pattern that correspond to the size you are making. This makes them easy to identify as you work.
You might also see sections written like this:
Sizes Small, Large, X-Large & 2X-Large Only
Inc rnd: K0 [-, 4, 10, 18], *kfb, k29 [-, 16, 9, 5]; rep from * to end—124 [-, 148, 164, 172] sts.
The heading of the section tells you that this increase round is only for sizes small, large, X-large and 2X-large. All other sizes will have different instructions to follow and can skip this section. You will notice a couple of other things in this line of text. It starts with K0. A zero in the pattern means for that size, you won’t work any stitches, but for other sizes you might. If you were making the size small, you would skip the first part of the instructions and go right to “*kfb.” You also see dashes in these instructions. The dashes take the place of the sizes that do not need to work this set of instructions. Since the medium size isn’t mentioned in the heading, it’s space in the brackets is reserved with a dash. This is so knitters can still identify which number in the brackets pertains to the size they are making.
Just remember to work the instructions carefully, one phrase at a time, from one punctuation mark to the next, the number of times stated, and be sure to start and finish each repeat at the correct point.
Charts, Schematics & Diagrams
Many knitters are visual people, and designers know this. For this reason, they will sometimes include charts in their patterns. Charts can be in different formats but usually involve a grid. Charts can be used to express stitch patterns for lace, cables, textured stitches, etc., and they can be used to represent colorwork patterns or images.
The designer should include information to help you read the chart. They may tell you that each square on the chart represents one stitch and each row on the chart represents one row or round of knitting. If you are working the project flat, generally, you read the chart from right to left on a right-side row and from left to right on a wrong-side row. If a chart is for a piece worked in the round, you will read the chart from right to left. Charts will come with a key that tells you what all the symbols and colors on the chart represent. When you encounter a symbol or color, refer to the key to see what to do.
Some designers use charts in addition to written instructions while others use charts instead of written instructions. This is completely up to the designer’s discretion. Many Japanese patterns, for instance, are completely charted with minimal details in written instructions.
Other visuals the designers might provide are schematics or diagrams. Schematics show the shape or outline of the finished piece. They usually have all the measurements for the pieces of the project. Sometimes designers will use a schematic, mark it with letters and then have you refer to a chart/kep with all the measurements. This is a nice, quick reference for picking a size or for making sure your piece is shaped correctly. Diagrams show placement or how to assemble the finished piece.