What Is Gauge?

Gauge is the information that allows any crocheter to follow a pattern and get an end product the same size as the finished measurements stated. Gauge is the number of stitches within a certain width and the number of rows or rounds within a certain height. The pattern will state the yarn and hook sizes the designer used. These should be used as a starting point for matching gauge. We all crochet and tension our yarn differently. Just because you use the exact same materials the designer used doesn’t mean you will get a piece the exact same size. Differences in yarns, hook material, tension and crocheting style -- even our emotions -- can all affect the size of the stitches being crocheted, therefore affecting the gauge.

For this reason, it is important to make a gauge swatch. If you are making a small piece, matching gauge might not be super critical and you can skip this process. But if you’re making a garment or large project, gauge is important to match and therefore to swatch. If your gauge is off, your piece could be a drastically different size than stated and you could run out of yarn. Designers use the gauge information to, as accurately as possible, determine the amount of yarn needed for a project, which they then list in the materials.

Making a gauge swatch will help you determine if you need to adjust your hook or your yarn to match the stated gauge measurements in the pattern. It is better to find out adjustments are needed after making a small piece of fabric than crocheting a large piece and having to undo it. Your swatch should be made using the exact yarn and hook you plan on using for your project. Swatching with a different yarn while you wait for your project yarn to come arrive in the mail doesn’t help you. Because even though yarn weights say they are standardized they can still vary in thickness and that can affect your gauge measurements.

How to Make a Gauge Swatch

Start with the hook recommended in the pattern and either the exact yarn in the pattern or a yarn that is the same weight and fiber content (or very close to the same fiber content). If your yarn is a different fiber than the one used in the pattern, it can behave differently and affect your ability to meet gauge. You also want to work it in the same stitch pattern as the project or the stitch pattern stated in the gauge information in the pattern if one is provided. If your project is worked flat, work a flat swatch. If your project is worked in the round, you want to work your swatch in the round.

Flat Swatch

You want to create a swatch that is at least 6 inches square. The larger your swatch the more accurate it will be. Chain the number of stitches that should give you about a 6-inch width of fabric and allow you to work in pattern. For example, if the gauge measurement reads 14 double crochet = 4 inches; 6 double crochet rows = 4 inches, you want to work a swatch in double crochet over at least 21 stitches (14 double crochet/4 inches = 3.5 double crochet per inch. 6-inch swatch x 3.5 double crochet = 21 double crochet). In this example, you’ll also want to work at least 9 rows (6 rows/4 inches = 1.5 rows per inch. 6-inch swatch x 1.5 rows = 9 rows).

In-the-Round Swatch

As mentioned you want to work your gauge swatch in the stated pattern stitch. You also want to work it how you will be working the project. Tension tends to be tighter on a small circumference (i.e. a small number of stitches in a small area). If you are working a swatch for a sweater, which is larger in circumference, be sure to work a larger swatch. Measuring a round swatch is difficult. You can work your swatch in the round, cut it and then measure it flat. This is easier with wool or alpaca yarn because they are sticky fibers, but you can do it with other fibers. Cut the yarn and then handle with care. You can tape the edges to keep them from unraveling. Then you can lay the piece flat and follow the next steps.

After Working the Swatch

Next you want to block your swatch the same way you will block your finished piece. If you don’t plan on blocking (or ever washing) your finished project, you can skip this step. Blocking can change the measurements on a swatch dramatically (depending on the fiber and tension) so it’s important to follow the steps you would take with the finished project. You can measure your swatch before blocking so that you have a comparison of exactly what happened with blocking. For more on how to block, refer to that section of the Stitch Guide. Once done blocking, you want to measure a 4-inch square (because that is what gauge measurements reference) in the center of the swatch. You measure in the center because edge stitches have a tendency to be less uniform. The center stitches are the most stable and even. If your numbers match the gauge stated in the pattern, you are good to go.

Below is an example of a swatch being measured. Note: The swatch pictured is pretty small. Again, the larger the swatch is the more accurate it will be.

If your numbers do not match the stated gauge, you need to work another swatch with a different size of hook. If you have fewer stitches over 4 inches than stated, you need to use a smaller hook so you can make more stitches in 4 inches. If you have more stitches than stated, you need to use a larger hook so you make fewer stitches. You won’t know exactly whether to change by one hook size or more than one. You just have to give it a try. If your numbers are way off, then you probably need a hook more than one size different. Continue making swatches until you find the best match for gauge with your hook and yarn. If it’s a real struggle, you might try a different hook material, like switching from aluminum to wood or vice versa. Yarn flows over the hook material differently and it can affect gauge a bit. If that still doesn’t help, you may have to try a different yarn. As mentioned, even though yarn is labeled with standard weights, there is still a variance in thickness within each size category of yarn.

When Exact Gauge Matters

Being off on gauge by even a little bit can greatly affect the overall finished size of your piece in a large project and the amount of yarn used. Again, on a small piece, it’s not critical. Let’s look at some numbers and compare so you understand. Using the same gauge example in the flat swatch instructions (14 double crochet = 4 inches; 6 double crochet rows = 4 inches), let’s say your swatch ended up being 16 double crochet x 7 rows in a 4-inch area. You decide that’s close enough and make the whole pattern for an afghan exactly as it reads. You chain enough chains to have 142 double crochet intending to make a 40-inch-wide finished afghan. Your stitch gauge was 16 double crochet = 4 inches. That’s 4 double crochet per inch, which means your finished afghan will actually be about 35.5 inches wide (142/4 double crochet = 35.5). So your afghan will be 4.5 inches smaller than it should be. Now, the pattern says to work in double crochet until your afghan is 50 inches long, or about 75 rows. Your row gauge is 7 double crochet rows = 4 inches, or 1.75 double crochet rows per inch. Your finished afghan worked to 50 inches has 87.5 rows (50 x 1.75 rows). So you worked more rows and have a more narrow afghan. You only bought the exact amount of yarn the pattern stated. Do you have enough yarn? Do you have a lot of extra yarn? Those become the key questions. You may run out before the 50-inch mark or you may have bought a lot more yarn than necessary (which could be a costly mistake with expensive yarn). Designers usually include more yarn than is strictly needed in the materials as a precaution, but do you want to risk it? That is up to you.

Just to be thorough, let’s see what happens if you use the same numbers as the hypothetical afghan pattern but you are making a garment. As above, you make 142 double crochet and intend to have a finished bust circumference of 40 inches on your sweater. You have a 38-inch bust circumference, so this would leave you with 2 inches of positive ease. That’s not a lot, but maybe you are making something with a more fitted look. Now let’s say the gauge from your swatch is the same as for the afghan. That means you are getting 4 double crochet per inch. Your finished bust measurement is 35.5 inches, but your bust measurement is 38 inches. That’s not going to work. Your sweater is going to be too small. If row gauge is off too, it can affect things like how tight the underarm is or how deep the neckline is. A small number can have dramatic results. Take the time to swatch and save yourself some aggravation.

As you work your piece, stop and check your measurements often. Your tension can change as you become more comfortable working on the project. If it does, you will want to catch it and make adjustments as early as possible. You can stop at any point, put your live stitch on a stitch marker and block it to check. It takes some time, but again, it will save you from having to redo a larger chunk of work. You want your piece to fit or function correctly when you are done.

What to Do With Your Swatches

If you make gauge swatches often, you end up with a lot of small pieces of fabric in varying yarns, colors and sizes. You can start a swatch library. Label each swatch with the yarn information (you can attach a yarn label), the hook you used (size and material) and the gauge measurements. Then you can keep them all as a reference for the future. Maybe you’ll use that same yarn on a future project in the same stitch pattern. You can check that old swatch for gauge and move right along. Sometimes it’s also nice to have a little reminder of the work you have done. There are other fun things you can do as well: Use your swatches as coasters. Bundle up similar ones and gift them as coasters or as washcloths (if they happen to be cotton). Hang them on the wall. Sew them together into a bag or blanket.