Applying Bias Stems
Here is a fast and accurate way to apply bias stems, stitching them by machine and finishing them by hand.
1. Straighten and press the bias stem fabric.
2. Position the fabric along a straight line on a rotary cutting mat with straight and 45-degree diagonal lines.
3. Place your ruler along a 45-degree line and make a cut diagonally across the fabric (Photo 1).
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture1.jpg)
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture1.jpg)
- Position the ruler along the first cut. Cut strips 1 1/8" wide along the diagonal cut (Photo 2).
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture2.jpg)
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture2.jpg)
- Carefully fold the strips in half with wrong sides together lengthwise and press (Photo 3).
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture3.jpg)
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture3.jpg)
- Draw a line with a fabric marking pen or pencil onto the right side of the fabric to mark the stem position. Mark a second line 1/4" to the left of the first line for the stitching line (Photo 4).
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture4.jpg)
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture4.jpg)
- Align the raw edges of the bias stem strip with the right- or stem-position line. Machine-stitch in place using a 1/4" seam allowance (Photo 5).
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture5.jpg)
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture5.jpg)
- Fold the bias-stem strip’s folded edge over the raw edges along the stitching line and pin in place (Photo 6).
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture6.jpg)
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture6.jpg)
- Hand-stitch the folded edge in place using a slipstitch or an applique stitch, like a blanket stitch (Photo 7).
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture7.jpg)
![](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture7.jpg)
![slip stitch and blanket stitch](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture8.jpg)
![slip stitch and blanket stitch](https://www.anniesattic.com/media/wysiwyg/Picture8.jpg)